I attended a screening in Cambridge Thursday evening of the new documentary, “Fresh”, on the changing face of American agriculture.

As I watched, I kept thinking about, “the man”—the proverbial unseen hand of government and big corporations that makes sure the economics of an industry are slanted against ordinary people.

One scene I found riveting was an interview with a middle-aged couple that owns a conventional chicken farm in Indiana. They looked nearly lifeless as they sat in their comfortable living room, with their pet poodle, explaining how they tend to 110,400 chickens in each pre-fab chicken house. Except “farm” and “chicken house” are misnomers, since they were really discussing a “chicken factory.”

What stood out beyond their obvious discomfort with their livelihood was the financial insecurity of it as well, as the wife described how she felt forced to sign a seven-year contract with a processor that provided the baby chicks and then took the animals for processing at a certain time. There was no negotiation, she said, because there was only one processing company to deal with. She didn’t say it, but presumably that seven-year contract dictated prices that put a strict lid on this family’s earnings after the chickens were fed and cared for.

The documentary was meant to contrast this farm family’s discouraging existence, and discouraging product, with the much different approaches of the growing number of sustainable farmers—represented in the documentary primarily by Joel Salatin, the Virginia farmer-author-teacher (photo above), and Will Allen, a community organizer who has brought sustainable farming to the city of Milwaukee (photo above, right).

The film is beautifully photographed, and both Salatin and Allen are stars because they are so articulate and charismatic. At one point, Salatin says, while out in his field, “What we’re really farming here is grass.” Allen makes much of the worms that help compost his farm’s land, pointing out that the beneficial bacteria they encourage have never led to a disease problem.

It’s an excellent film that does a wonderful job of contrasting the worlds of factory and nutrient-dense foods, and I suggest you try to see it if you have the opportunity.

At the end of the screening, which was attended by about 400 people in a large Harvard lecture hall, Salatin, Allen, and the film’s director Ana Sofia Joanes, appeared on a panel (to a standing ovation) to answer audience questions. One of the questioners was a woman who said she lived on a dairy farm in northern Vermont, and wondered what the panelists had to say about the dire financial situation facing dairy farmers because of the plummeting prices being paid for raw milk. Only Salatin mentioned the option for these farmers of producing raw milk and selling it direct to consumers.

But dairy farmers in California, Vermont, and Maine all face the same problem as the chicken family I alluded to at the start: the “man” controls dairy prices and will destroy dairy farmers so as to benefit the processors and retailers.

A petition addressed to the secretary of agriculture, TomVilsack, was passed out at the end of the film screening from Farm Aid, arguing, “But for the immediate survival of our dairy farmers, the price of milk paid to farmers must be altered to reflect their cost of production.” Nice idea, but begging the “the man” for help on milk prices has never been all that productive. It’s farmers like Salatin and Allen and raw dairy farmers selling direct to consumers who will have the best chance of surviving and thriving.