One of the things Ontario Judge Paul Kowarsky marveled at when he ruled in favor of raw dairy farmer Michael Schmidt and his herdshare arrangement last January was that there was “no evidence of any illness” in the 16 years the farmer and government authorities battled over availability of raw milk. Moreover, tests by the regulatory authorities never found any evidence of pathogens.

The other side of that observation by the judge is that, when a case involving raw milk comes up for court consideration, there damn well better not be evidence of illnesses lurking in the background (not that it guarantees a win, by any means). Or, to put it another way, just a few bad apples–farmers whose milk causes illnesses–can make things very difficult for the vast majority of dairy farmers who are being meticulous in ensuring their milk is produced according to the highest possible safety standards.

Unfortunately, there are a few producers who are creating all kinds of problems for the vast majority of raw milk producers. I don’t mean to suggest anyone is doing anything intentional, but definitely in this business, shit does happen. Complicating the situation, there are many who don’t want to admit that raw milk can become contaminated with pathogens and result in illness.

In that vein, I want to thank Blair McMorran (of the Raw Milk Association of Colorado) for sharing with us (in a comment following my previous post) her candid assessment of the recent illnesses attributed to raw milk in Colorado: “In this case, certain standards of production were not followed…more outbreaks will happen unless we focus on herd health before consumer demand.”

She concludes by making the case for a raw dairy association with teeth: “We need more testing, more administration, website function, more educational brochures, some training videos, and more part-time help – including a field-worker who can go onsite and help new producers.”

Why not a national raw dairy association? Every other food category has an association of some type. At least some of the good ones establish standards of excellence that everyone has to abide by to remain a member in good standing.

Yes, it costs money. But there’s money to be made in producing safe high-quality raw dairy products. An active and credible association helps to politically protect the industry. Just like any other industry association.
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I had a busy but productive weekend on the food front. I accomplished one important goal by locating a new source of high-quality kombucha, to replace the kombucha that Whole Foods ditched a few weeks ago. It’s a small Vermont producer, Aquavitea, that distributes to small food retailers within about a 150-mile radius. I asked at the New Hampshire retailer I purchased from how Aquavitea has avoided the recall over supposedly excess alcohol that convinced Whole Foods to drop out of the business. The manager told me Aquavitea rigorously tests each batch of kombucha for alcohol content before shipment, and then ships only short distances, so most of the kombucha is sold within days of being shipped. Another argument for locally produced food, I suppose.

The second goal I accomplished was completing what might be called “a minor tuneup” on my book, The Raw Milk Revolution: Behind America’s Emerging Struggle Over Food Rights. The book is going into a second re-printing, and the publisher gave me the opportunity to do some minimal but important updating. Many thanks to those who have so enthusiastically supported the book’s publication. There’ll be lots more copies out there, so feel free to tell your friends about it.
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On the legal front, the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund has filed another appeal in the Meadowsweet Dairy case in New York. So far, Meadowsweet has lost in a trial court and been rejected by two appeals courts. It is now making an appeal based on the argument that “personal liberties and constitutional rights are protected” by New York’s constitution. “Members of Meadowsweet believe it is their right to form a private organization to produce and consume the food they choose to put into their own bodies and that the government has no role or right to interfere or make it difficult or impossible for them to obtain that food.”
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If you’re looking for more evidence that locally grown nutrient-dense food is hot, take a look at this article, and see if you can find the sentence about how much people were paying for dinner in the field of organic veggie farmer (and author) Eliot Coleman. His farm is near the Maine coast, about four hours from Boston. (Hint: $160 a person).