I keep trying to figure out what’s really going on with New York’s Department of Agriculture and Markets, and I’m having trouble. A few people have written me to suggest possible motivations. A couple have suggested that the regulators in New York are just doing their job. They’re enforcing the law and using U.S. Food and Drug Administration guidelines that provide for zero tolerance of listeria in dairy products.

They point out that the regulators are actually involved in a dialogue. Sure, there was that unfortunate timing of taking that milk sample from Chuck Phippens’ bulk tank while he was at a meeting with NY Ag & Markets, but the regulators are talking. Certainly they deserve a chance to see that process through.

I guess I don’t like their track record. There’s the case of Dawn Sharts, who in 2007 turned in her raw milk permit after a listeria finding, and using a video recorder to capture questionable practices by NY Ag and Markets inspectors. She had been promised a meeting with Ag and Markets officials to discuss her concerns, but somehow the meeting never came off.

There was the case of Lori and Darren McGrath, who had a listeria finding in their milk nearly a year ago, and had a split sample tested privately, with no listeria finding. You think there was an investigation or reassessment by NY Ag and Markets of the testing procedures?

Chuck Phippen has yet to receive a response to the letter he sent last November (noted in my previous post) challenging the fines he received in connection with the questionable listeria findings in his milk (unless you consider the inspection that occurred while he was meeting with Ag and Markets officials a response).

So maybe something will come from the pow wow held a couple weeks ago between raw dairy producers and NY Ag and Markets officials, but I wouldn’t hold my breath waiting. (Suggestion to Jennifer B., about the promise of a call back by Commr. Hooker’s office: You may well want to not only follow Mark McAfee’s advice, but also stay after the commissioner, since my guess is you won’t hear back as promised.)

The reality is that if NY Ag and Markets was in the least bit inclined toward playing fair and working with its raw dairy producers, there are all kinds of possible compromise approaches available. To begin with, there’s nothing in any laws that require NY Ag and Markets to force milk off the market with a finding of a single listeria cell.

NY Ag and Markets has chosen a strict interpretation of the adulteration rules.

Here’s the take of Gary Cox of the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund, who has much experience tangling with NY Ag and Markets: “When they find listeria, they say that automatically constitutes adulteration because milk is supposed to be free of any pathogen. The presence of any pathogen is an automatic ‘adulteration’ scenario according to their interpretation of th regulation. However, the problem is that not all pathogens cause illness in humans Thus, if it doesn’t cause any illness it should not be adulteration.”

So why are they totally inflexible? As just one example, why couldn’t they use the rapid test (described in my previous post), which could be slightly more forgiving?

But why especially now, in the midst of a crisis that has conventional small dairies collapsing all around us?

And when taking such a hard-nosed attitude is driving raw dairies to avoid Ag & Markets, and just sell underground? Wouldn’t you think Ag & Markets would be concerned about a growing public health menace from having an increasing amount of uninspected raw milk hitting the market?

There’s only one explanation I can come up with. And that is the FDA. Look what’s been happening. A number of states have responded to the hard economic times by showing more flexibility about raw milk.

In California, Mark McAfee of Organic Pastures reports a new friendliness from inspectors from the California Department of Food and Agriculture. The new friendliness corresponds with growing talk about eliminating CDFA entirely. That talk is being promoted by none other than Dean Florez, the Senate majority leader—the same Dean Florez whose requests to appear at an April 2008 raw milk hearing CDFA chose to ignore.

The FDA is losing its raw milk war. But it is determined to turn things around. What better way than to get its henchmen in New York to crack the whip on people like Chuck Phippen and Jerry Snyder.

Maybe the answer is to take the Dean Florez approach to New York. Just get rid of NY Ag and Markets. Save money, end harassment, open up the dairy economy.