I had a special treat on Sunday, spending time with Margaret and Stuart Osha, owners of the Turkey Hill Farm in Randolph, VT (as well as with Cathy Raymond of the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund, who was visiting). And it wasn’t just the amazing food they served for lunch (real burgers from their farm’s beef on home-made bread, and raw milk vanilla ice cream). Turkey Hill Farm is a great example of a thriving sustainable farm–it has four milking cows, four pigs, a half dozen lambs, and about 100 chickens, to go with all kinds of veggies and flowers. Nearly all the products are sold in advance to customers in the local area.

While it’s a serious well run business, I have to admit I thought the raw milk warning sign in the tiny store area, pictured here, was a joke. The sign is more than two feet high.

But no, it isn’t a joke. The new Vermont raw milk law that went into effect last year specifies exactly this sign (actually, it can be a tad smaller–the lettering is supposed to be at least one inch high), be posted at the farm. Of course, it hasn’t hampered sales in the least, but it highlights the craziness of the regulator mentality.

In the wrangling in Massachusetts over buying clubs, one of the arguments that’s been put forth by those who want to ban the buying clubs is that the reason it’s essential for consumers to go to the farm is so they see the warning sign (even though each bottle of raw milk has a warning statement similar to that posted in Vermont). Not surprisingly, the Massachusetts regulators change their arguments. Sometimes they say they want people to see the signs. Other times, they say they worry whether the milk being transported by the buying clubs is refrigerated well enough.

There were some similar arguments put forth in Wisconsin, that the signage required wasn’t clear or explicit enough. Or maybe it had to do with the height of the signs. It’s hard to keep track, and that’s part of the problem. Once you answer one of the opponents’ concerns, they have another.

I have actually come to wonder about the whole buy-only-from-the-farm argument. If raw milk is to be treated like other foods, why are we limiting its sale to the farm? And in Vermont, not only are sales limited to the farm, but quantities are as well; it was a big deal when the state’s new law lifted maximum daily sales to 160 quarts from 10. Once again, it seems that either you allow sales or you don’t allow sales.

You look at California, and raw milk is being shipped up and down and around a state that is probably larger than the six New England states combined. Thousand of people are buying it every day in retail stores, and lo and behold, no one’s dropping ill or dead. Quite the opposite. To make the regulators feel better, allow retails sales everywhere, and put one of those Vermont warning signs above the dairy cases housing raw milk.
 
I devote a chapter of The Raw Milk Revolution: Behind America’s Emerging Struggle Over Food Rights to examining how listeria tests of raw milk in New York state have been of dubious validity. That doesn’t mean each state is going to do questionable testing and enforcement. As I said, I thought Minnesota treated raw milk like any other food in its initial testing, and feel, as Milky Way suggests, that it’s a mistake to try to portray that effort as some kind of conspiracy because pathogens weren’t found in the milk. (A new report from Minnesota Public Radio indicates regulators feel conditions at the farm were unsanitary.)

Minnesota regulators may have gone overboard in their subsequent investigative activities, as I noted in my previous post. But let’s keep in mind that in our justice system, people are given lengthy prison terms based on circumstantial evidence. The presence of a suspect’s hair or clothing in a murder victim’s car can seal the deal, even if there are no witnesses to the murder.

In the Hartmann case and others, we’re not talking about sending people to jail. Aside from the real issue of people becoming ill, we are talking as well about a propaganda war. In propaganda wars, credibility is in short supply. Those in favor of food rights do themselves a favor to question cases that should be questioned, and be prepared to accept problems that seem to be real problems–it definitely builds credibility.

 Margaret and Stuart Osha, owners of Turkey Hill Farm in Vermont.On both sides of the raw milk argument, it’s tempting to let prejudices get in the way of common sense.

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There was a pretty good segment on the issues around the raw milk debate, including the economic arguments, broadcast by the National Public Radio show, “Living on Earth” last Sunday, including an interview with yours truly (scroll up to the top to be able to click on a link to a recording of the broadcast).