Okay, I’m back to reality. Not sure where all that Mitt Romney stuff came from—dreams are funny that way. Maybe because he was a skillful venture capitalist in his day (and made all the millions he’s now throwing into the presidential race), I had him buried in my subconscious.

In the real world, small dairies struggle, whether they sell pasteurized or unpasteurized milk. If they sell pasteurized milk, they struggle with trying to make it in a factory system that pays them commodity prices geared toward large farms. If they produce raw milk, they struggle with hostile regulators.

Whittier Farms, the Massachusetts dairy that tried to get around the commodity system by pasteurizing its own milk and wound up sickening four people with listeriosis—three of them died while the fourth, a pregnant woman, had a miscarriage—is bowing out of processing. The latest news is that it has shut down its processing plant—apparently the owners, the fourth generation of the Whittier family, decided they couldn’t de-contaminate the processing plant enough to satisfy regulators.

On the raw milk front, Mark McAfee of Organic Pastures, has taken to posting messages on YouTube, and his latest one summarizes the discouraging state of affairs with coliform counts and AB1604. He tries to paint an upbeat picture about the coming commission investigating raw milk (it “will be very friendly,” he says) and he expects Assemblywoman Nicole Perra to introduce a new law in a month or two “with maybe even more protections” than the repeal of the coliform standard would have provided.

But as for the coliform inspections that have begun, “We’re getting by,” he says, but, “Our long-term survival is in jeopardy.”

I decided to do some checking on the state of the dairy industry in the U.S., and it seems even worse than I imagined. Data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture shows that between 1970 and 2006, the number of dairy farms declined 88%. Yet because milk production per cow doubled during that time, production per farm increased twelve-fold.

That’s supposed to be good news, I suppose, because high supplies means low prices. That increase in productivity per cow didn’t just happen, though. I wonder how much came from all the hormones pumped into the cows. I can’t wait for cloning.