It’s always tempting at the start of a New Year to attempt predictions about upcoming news and trends. In the arena of raw milk, one thing I can say with a good deal of confidence is that 2009 will almost certainly be a dynamic year. The subject has attracted a growing amount of interest from consumers. There is much more blogging about raw milk, more discussion, more debate. Moreover, it is clear that demand is growing nationally.

Trying to predict what will happen in the marketplace is trickier. That is dependent in significant measure on the decisions of regulators. If they are as determined to smother the growing national demand for high-quality unpasteurized milk produced by committed dairy farmers—per heavy-handed actions in New York and Pennsylvania—then it could be a very tough year.

If the regulators decide to do what they are supposed to do, which is to promote agricultural development and public health, then they will find ways to work within the existing patchwork system of distribution directly from farms and via herdshares, along with retail sales in the few states where it is allowed.

The vagaries of supply and demand are evident in two seemingly contradictory developments.

The first has to do with major adjustments in the agricultural marketplace. There’s an article in today’s New York Times about a shift in the conventional milk market, from fast-growing demand to fast-growing surplus (and declining prices paid farmers)—something that’s happening with any number of agricultural commodities as a worldwide economic recession takes hold. It’s something Mark McAfee of Organic Pastures Dairy Co. has been predicting for a few months now.

Then there is the phenomenon of uncertain supply for many consumers of raw milk. I received this email recently from a resident of Michigan, who asked to remain anonymous—not wanting to give regulators too much info about herself and location for fear they’ll try to make a bad situation worse:

“It’s winter, the hardest time for farmers to milk. They’re spending money on hay, the cows are less happy, and production goes down without pasture. We have a herd share and our farmer suddenly decided to give it all up and quit. So there are suddenly dozens of people left high and dry – no milk.”

This individual checked around, only to discover that other suppliers of raw milk were at capacity, and couldn’t take her on. She convinced a friend to sell her half a gallon of raw milk. “But another friend, with a baby who was just starting on raw milk, has been left wondering what to do about her kid’s future nutrition.”

While this consumer expects to find a new source of raw milk, she bemoans the effect on the community created by her old herdshare. “With milk apparently scarce around here, I have to decide who to‘bring along’ if I do make the connection, and who to cut out… This does feel like an underground drug culture. Which is so amazingly absurd.”

She expects the supply situation to improve in the spring, when cows get back to pasture and become more productive. The bigger problem for her, and for other raw milk drinkers who encounter supply difficulties, is, as she says regarding pasteurized milk, “There is no going back. I’ve never enjoyed drinking milk before, as it made me sick. Raw milk is the only milk I can consume…It is all so very frustrating. Here we have a commodity that is healthy and an important part of a diet, there is no substitute (other than goats’ milk), the demand is greater than the supply, and I have to finesse and wait and struggle and beg and pull up every connection I can think of just to gain access.

“It’s just milk. But there are few foods more basic and part of everyday life. I want to be able to choose it, and I certainly want to be able to consume it…This just totally sucks.”

I agree. That’s the big problem for raw milk drinkers: there’s no going back. I, for one, can’t even stand to spend time in the dairy section of the grocery.

Maybe some of these conventional dairies being slammed by rapidly declining milk prices will begin to take a look at the raw dairy market, where demand, and prices, are on the rise. Their big challenge is to develop a true commitment to producing high-quality milk, and not the stuff they get away with for pasteurization.