IMG_1292.jpgThe dozens of visitors to Oake Knoll Ayrshires’ farm in Foxboro, MA, a week ago Sunday had many questions for Terri Lawton, the manager of its raw milk business. They wanted to know about the impact of grass, hay, and other feed on the cows’ milk output; her sanitation procedures, the cows’ birthing timetables; milking schedules, and so forth. (She’s shown in the photo at right holding the sanitizing solution she uses to prepare the cows for milking.)

One question that didn’t come up—and I must admit it didn’t occur to me, as well—was what kind of testing the state does for pathogens. (The big four are E.coli 0157:H7, listeria monocytogenes, salmonella, and campylobacter.)

When I chatted further with her last week, I learned in the course of conversation that the raw milk from her seven cows isn’t tested for pathogens. That’s because Massachusetts–unlike Pennsylvania, New York, California, and other states that allow raw milk sales–doesn’t regularly test for pathogens any of the nine farms licensed by the state to sell raw milk. (Actually, a review of the web site of the Massachusetts Department of Agriculture and Markets reveals nothing current about raw milk, positive or negative.)

Interesting, I thought. Should the knowledge that no tests for pathogens are being done on the raw milk I purchase make me hesitant about buying in the future? Should I be suspicious that the farmers, knowing their milk isn’t being tested for pathogens, are careless?

I was trying to answer those questions for myself last week as I monitored the heated debate on this site about Mark McAfee’s latest encounter with state authorities over the discovery of listeria monocytogenes in his dairy’s cream. A number of readers spoke to this issue of testing milk in one way or another.

Anna recounted, in a comment following my posting, "Will the Real Mark McAfee Please Stand Up!", “I’ve been buying what I guess is essentially probably illegal (no official oversight at all) raw goat milk the past few months for a couple of reasons: it is delivered to me (how cool is that?!); at $7/gallon is half the price of OPDC milk; it is more local (same county) rather than half a large state away; and I like making cheese with it.” While she said her family tired of the "goaty" taste, she seemed to have no fears that the milk wasn’t being tested for pathogens.

No food I can think of, other than raw milk, is regularly tested by major states for pathogens at the time it is sold. Other foods are only tested if someone becomes ill. The reason for such testing of raw milk is based on…what? The obvious answer is that it’s based on the disease outbreaks from tainted raw milk in the early 1900s.

But if you try to dig into the history of the testing, you don’t find clearcut answers. One of my questions for New York’s Department of Agriculture and Markets when I was reporting on the listeria problems with New York farmer Dawn Sharts’ milk for a BusinessWeek.com article was about the history of the state’s raw milk licensing and pathogen-testing procedures. The answer I received was that the history was kind of blurry. Raw milk sales were overseen by county health departments until the mid-1970s, when the state agriculture agency took over, and the agency doesn’t have those records. The permit system was instituted in 1981, and presumably the testing for pathogens as well.

I think milkfarmer said it best in a comment following my posting, "What Made Brit and Her Husband Ill?", “Raw milk demands a higher level of responsibility from those who produce it AND consume it. Some farmers, and consumers, being preconditioned to having the State assume the lion’s share of this responsibility, aren’t up to this.”

I agree. I made my decision to buy and drink the milk from Oak Knolle Ayrshires after touring the facilities and listening to Terri Lawton answer questions about her production methods. She made a decision to sell to me based on my agreement with her explanation that there are "risks in drinking raw milk" and willingness to provide my name and contact information in the event of a recall.

I suspect most of the others at the farm that Sunday made their decisions to purchase and consume the farm’s raw milk based on similar considerations. I don’t want to start waxing eloquent about Massachusetts’ enlightened policy because I am sure part of the reason it’s not testing is due more to the fact that there hasn’t been much demand for raw milk until recently than any conscious decision.  Or because, like some of the other states that use tests for pathogens as an excuse to harass raw milk producers, officials can’t remember why they did or didn’t institute such testing in the first place.