Stephen Leslie and team plow a field at Cedar Mountain Farm in Vermont. (Photo by Carla Kimball, http://revealedpresence.com/2009/08/25/farming-with-horses/)Before they came to eastern Vermont ten years ago and launched Cedar Mountain Farm, Kerry Gawalt and Stephen Leslie ran an organic vegetable farm in New Hampshire. The rules about how you were to handle matters like pesticides and soil care were straightforward and made sense.

Now that they run a raw dairy in Vermont, the process seems much more cumbersome. “In Vermont, the record keeping and paperwork are such” that the couple decided to do without the “organic” label for both their raw milk and the veggies they sell via a CSA (community supported agriculture). (In Vermont, organic standards from the U.S. Department of Agriculture are administered by Northeast Organic Farmers.)

Most important, their dairy customers—about 40 families and a cheese-making operation that purchase their raw milk—seem unconcerned. “We sell everything within ten miles” of the farm, and customers seem content to be able to view the clean conditions and focus on sustainability—things like a modern state-of-the-art barn and a horse-drawn plow (pictured above), both of which use virtually no carbon fuels—and not worry about a label.

I had an opportunity to visit with Kerry and Stephen yesterday as part of a visit to a friend at Cobb Hill cohousing, where the Cedar Mountain Farm is an enterprise.

Kerry regrets that the “organic” label has become ever more complex, and thus less accessible, for smaller farming enterprises. The big problem in her view is on the dairy side and concerns the rules about antibiotics—for example, that cows given antibiotics to deal with “life and death” situations need to be culled from the herd. “Occasionally, a calf needs tetracycline” to save its life, she says. “You get punished if you don’t treat the animal and punished if you do.”

A calf that has been treated once with antibiotics usually recovers and goes on to become a good milk producer, she argues. “We don’t lose a single calf”under current practices.

Other organic rules affect the administering of nutritional supplements, like calcium gluconate to head off or treat milk fever. She doesn’t want the strict rules on when and how it can be administered to interfere with what she sees as effective nourishment of the animals.

The rulemakers, driven by zealous foodies and increasingly by agribusiness interests, “don’t care about cows,” says Kerry. “It’s about people.” And people have been taught that administering antibiotics, in particular, forever taints an animal.

I guess if there’s one thing I’ve learned in talking with farmers over the last few years is that farm animals are a lot like people. Invariably, the better their nutrition, the healthier they are. Moreover, occasional treatment with antibiotics to deal with occasional disease that otherwise isn’t responding to treatment or is worsening, can be appropriate.

As Kerry points out, there’s a huge education issue for consumers. Many, for example, don’t understand why it’s so important to clean their refillable milk jars thoroughly.

I’ve found a great deal of confusion about “organic,” especially as applies to milk. I am frequently asked how organic pasteurized milk compares to organic raw milk, and to non-organic raw milk, and I try to explain that the most important difference isn’t necessarily the “organic” part, but the “raw” part. All of which invariably leads into a whole new conversation.
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Interesting that after all the discussion here about gut health, the mass media and scientists from the National Insitutes of Health are openly worrying about the problem. A new study suggests that not only do antibiotics do a number on gut flora, but at least one antibiotic may do a permanent number. That’s pretty scary—take a round of antibiotics and permanently disable your gut.

I love this quote: “The gut harbors the largest collection of micro-organisms in the human body. Yet these microbial communities remain largely a mystery to scientists.

“Studying gut bugs could one day yield much knowledge about the role bacteria play in human development, physiology, immunity and nutrition.”

My question: why wait for the scientists to make official something that many people have known for hundreds of years?
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Okay, I’m venturing into this social networking business. I’ve started using Twitter. I promise not to tell you about what I’m eating for lunch (unless it’s super special), or how I got caught in a traffic jam, and try to provide alerts that “feed” off things happening in the food and health worlds. Right now, it’s definitely a work in progress.